3.9

3.9 Charles Bridge

Charles Bridge is an iconic symbol of Prague and one of the city’s most visited attractions. Spanning the Vltava River (the Moldau), it connects the Old Town with the Lesser Quarter. It is a prime example of Gothic architecture (14th c.), adorned with remarkable statues (17th-21th c.). To avoid crowds, it is better to cross it early in the morning, when the mist often blankets the river, or at sunset, when the sky colours the city in orange and pink, reflecting beautifully off the water. If visitors set off to cross it in the Old Town, they see an unparalleled perspective of Prague’s stunning architecture, with its sculptures, church spires and Prague Castle towering up above, all in one panoramic view. 

According to many legends, the bridge has magic powers, also because Charles IV is said to have ordered some precious stones and remains of saints to be incorporated in the bridge. Supposedly, there is even a magical sword hidden within the bridge by Bruncvík, a legendary Czech knight, waiting to be discovered in times of great need to defeat enemies. (His sculpture is lower than the other thirty sculptures, at the head of the bridge pillar above the river bank, Lesser Quarter.). Nevertheless, whether you believe in legends and miracles or not, the spirituality of the saints portrayed by the sculptures gives Charles Bridge a mystical aura. It is a an open-air gallery enclosed by the bridge towers, with many stories being told. Luckily, it is a free “gallery”, only the two towers at either side are paid, if you want to climb up: the Old Town Bridge Tower and the Lesser Town Bridge Tower every step (both half price within the first hour after opening).  Perhaps more interesting is the view from the Old Town Bridge Tower because you can appreciate better views of the Castle. The third and oldest bridge tower, the lower Judith Tower (12th c.) in the Lesser Quarter, is not accessible.

One can also easily imagine ghosts or miracles happening on the bridge at night, also thanks to the mystical and romantic light given off by the gas lamps. In fact, Charles Bridge is the only bridge with gas lamps in the world, to highlight its old times charm (previous electric ones replaced recently). The Royal Route was the route from the Powder Gate to Prague Castle that kings and other important people followed during coronation processions and other important events. However, the bridge also witnessed rather gruesome events. For instance, the wider part close to the Old Town Bridge Tower was the setting of executions and punishments, such as dishonest merchants dropped off the bridge into the river in wooden cages in order to teach them a lesson.

The wider part of the bridge is also where you will find one of the most photographed sculptures on the bridge. The bronze Roman Catholic crucifix is unusual because of its Hebrew script (17th c.). Historical records say that a Jew was made to pay for that sign as punishment for supposedly having offended a group of Catholics praying in front of it. The text of the script is derived from the words of the prophet Isaiah and reads “Holy, holy, holy is the Lord of Hosts.” Prague authorities later added plaques there explaining the story and adding that those improper court proceedings in the old times humiliated the Jewish community (more about persecution in our article about the Jewish Quarter). This is also the area where the original wooden cross stood (14th c.), before any sculptures appeared.

Charles Bridge has also been connected with legends, including some related to its longevity and foundation. One legend claims that the bridge has lasted until now because raw eggs were added to the mortar. Another legend says that the foundation stone was laid on the advice of royal astrologers to bring good luck (July 9, 1357, at 5:31 am). One of the main reasons why the bridge has remained there is simply the fact that it is higher than the previous Judith Bridge, which had been swept away by floods (12th-14th c.). Not surprisingly, Charles Bridge has always suffered from floods and not all its parts are original. It has also undergone several renovation projects in modern times. Major reconstruction was necessary also because during Communism it was damaged by salt used in winter, and car traffic, which was allowed on the bridge until the 1960s. Ice-breakers are also still there, even though not to protect the arches from ice any longer, only from floating objects which could damage it, especially during floods.

The most famous legend about Charles Bridge is connected with one priest whose body is buried inside St. Vitus Cathedral now. The sculpture of St. John of Nepomuk (Jan z Nepomuku) is the one that draws the most attention. You will recognize it easily because it is made of bronze, unlike by far most of the other sandstone sculptures that are more susceptible to damage. Above all, St. John’s five-starred halo will attract your attention, as well as the crowds gathering here all the time to touch its reliefs for good luck. Supposedly, five stars appeared when the dead body of the priest had been thrown into the river by some Castle guards (14th century). The legend says that he was tortured and died because he had refused to reveal the Queen‘s confessional secrets to the King (Charles IV’s son, Wenceslas IV). However, modern historians dispute that, claiming that his death was due to a power struggle between the King and the Archbishop, the priest caught in between as his assistant. You will see similar sculptures elsewhere in Prague and in the country, also many churches devoted to this priest. Even if most travellers learn this story before they touch the reliefs, by far most of them do not touch the supposedly “right” places. Nothing on the sculpture itself should be touched for good luck at all. You need to go one sculpture ahead  (if you set off from the Lesser Quarter) and then you will see a plaque on the parapet of the bridge, which bears a cross with five stars. That is where you should place your right hand. Immediately above the plaque, there is a wrought-iron tableau depicting Saint John, which you should touch with your left hand. Later, you can also see St. John of Nepomuk‘s silver tomb inside St. Vitus Cathedral at the Prague Castle, where you can walk from Charles Bridge, up Nerudova Street. On the other side of the river bank, you can visit the Museum of Charles Bridge in the Old Town, where you can read more about St. John of Nepomuk. You will see the entrance to the museum behind the sculpture of King Charles IV and the four original faculties of Charles University he set up below him. (The museum is free if you take a boat trip with the Prague Venice wooden boats, which can enter the shalow Devil’s Canal/Prague Venice, unlike large boats.) If you are more interested in modern history, you can explore the area near the Lennon Wall, only about ten minutes from the bridge, in the Lesser Quarter.

Although some of the sandstone sculptures on the bridge are replicas to protect them from further damage, each statue tells a story and represents various saints and historical figures significant to the Catholic faith and Czech culture, having been donated by churches, the nobility and various institutions. The bridge is also a cultural hotspot, often bustling with street performers, artists, and vendors selling local crafts. Musicians playing traditional Czech tunes and painters capturing the scenery create a lively atmosphere that enhances the experience for visitors. For many travellers, walking across Charles Bridge is not just about getting from one side of the river to the other; it is about embracing the spirit of Prague. Each step on the cobblestones is a step through history, while imagining the merchants, pilgrims, and even royalty who have crossed the bridge over the centuries. It not only connects different parts of the city but also serves as a bridge between the past and the present.

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