Standing at 216 metres, the Žižkov TV Tower (Tower Park Prague) is the tallest structure in Prague offering views stretching up to one hundred kilometres away. Its upper sections contain three observation cubicles (93 m, 352 m above sea level), a restaurant/café (66 m), and more. Apart from the views, if you pay the admission fees to the observation decks, you will also be able to read some information about the tower’s history and the landmarks visible from it.
The tower also serves as a reminder of Prague’s complex history, especially the Communist era, and its Jewish heritage. Construction began during the Communist totalitarian regime in 1985, but was completed until after the Velvet Revolution, in 1992.
Dues to its modern design, which contrasts starkly with Prague’s historic skyline, many Praguers believe it spoils the panorama of their beloved old city. Some Czechs even named it “the Rocket” or “the Needle”. Its futuristic, high-tech design is certainly ahead of its time, and is a hallmark of the renowned Czech architect, Václav Aulický. Perhaps its design and location are still ahead of their time, as the tower regularly ranks at the top in various rankings of the world’s ugliest buildings (2009 Virtual Tourist rating: second only to the Mechanic Theatre in Baltimore). Nevertheless, it was an architectural and technological marvel when it was built, and it still is today. The three-mast construction gives the tower greater stability, and any possible fluctuations are eliminated by special pendulums and anchor plates inside the structure.
Apart from offering views and providing TV/radio broadcasting and telecommunications, the tower is actually a multi-purpose venue. There is a mini-golf park next to it with a garden restaurant at its foot. It occasionally serves as a cultural venue for exhibitions and corporate events, and performances are held in the atrium next to the tower in the warmer season.
If you do not want to pay for a ticket to access the observation decks (family and other discounts available), you can simply make a reservation at Restaurant Oblaca, which is located one level below. (The name ‘Oblaca’ means ‘clouds’ in Czech.) The restaurant specialises in first-class catering, so expect to pay high prices for meals. However, coffee and some desserts are reasonably priced. The restaurant is open until midnight, giving you the chance to enjoy the views of the glowing lights below, making you feel almost as if you were in outer space. It is a great evening activity when many other places are already closed. However, to avoid disappointment, please bear in mind that the glass windows are not ideal for taking photos and that the main attractions, such as Prague Castle, are farther away. If you would prefer free views without windows in the same neighbourhood, you can go to Vitkov Hill in Žižkov, which is an easy walk from the Ohrada tram stop.
For those who do not mind spending much more, there is even a unique one-room hotel in the Žižkov Tower (opened in 2012). As it is just a seventy-square-metre apartment, which makes it the smallest hotel in the Czech Republic, and likely one of the most expensive (around 1,000 euros per night).
One of the most photographed features of the tower is its “crawling residents”, ten sculptures called “Babies” (“Mimina”) created by David Černý in 2001. These black sculptures add a playful touch to the tower’s exterior and have remained in place due to their popularity, despite originally being intended as a temporary installation. It is difficult to see their faces from the tower, but you can see three larger-than-life copies down by the river near the Kampa Museum. Although they seem to be just some cheeky happy children climbing on the tower, they have a code instead of faces. Looking somewhat creepy and sci-fi, they symbolise the pros and cons of technological advances and their impact on people.
The Žižkov TV Tower was built for two reasons: technology/communications and politics. Its purpose was not only to replace the ageing Petřín Tower and improve television and signal transmission across Prague. It was also intended to prevent people from listening to ‘hostile’ capitalist radio stations such as Radio Free Europe, the BBC, and Deutsche Welle.
Construction of the tower was also resented because the majority of the 17th-19th century Jewish cemetery surrounding the transmitter was destroyed during communism to make space for it. Therefore, while the TV Tower represents modern Prague, the remains of the cemetery serve as a reminder to respect old heritage and traditions when reshaping our cities.
Some of the tombstones at the Žižkov Old Jewish Cemetery are very ornate and beautiful, and the cemetery certainly has a special atmosphere. Unlike the Old Jewish Cemetery in the Old Town, where you need a ticket to the whole Jewish Museum in the Jewish Quarter to enter, the Žižkov Old Jewish Cemetery is free of charge.
The tower is easily accessible by public transport — just a short tram or metro ride from the centre. As an added bonus, you can marvel at the local Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord, a beautiful and unique modernist building (accessible inside only before and during services). Needless to say that this is a welcome location if you want to escape crowds of tourists. Žižkov is an ideal choice for those seeking a local vibe with fewer crowds, just a few minutes by tram from the very centre. It is also well known for its local restaurants and bars.
