Wenceslas Square, located in the New Town, serves as both a historical landmark and a bustling hub of contemporary life. Although it sounds like this part of Prague is relatively new, its origins date back to the 14th century. Charles IV established the New Town because the Old Town was already too small for the expanding medieval town and his ambitious plans.
The square was primarily set up as a horse market. In its upper part you will actually see a horse. To be precise, the metal sculpture of Saint Wenceslas sitting on a horse, surrounded by other Czech saints (Saint Ludmila, his grandmother, Saint Agnes of Bohemia, Saint Procopius, and Saint Adalbert).
St Wenceslas was the first Czech patron saint of Bohemia, killed in 935 due to political intrigue and betrayal (very likely by his brother and his helpers). Wenceslas’ grandparents set up the Prague Castle in the 9th century and supported the spread of Christianity in the region. They were from the Slavic Přemyslid dynasty, which ruled Bohemia for over four hundred years (9th c. – 1306). Wenceslas’s legacy as a fair, brave and pious ruler has been alive since the 10th century, when he was buried at Prague Castle, inside St Vitus Rotunda (now much larger St. Vitus Cathedral).
His iconic sculpture forms the focal point of the square, providing a place for reflection and gathering. It has also become a symbol of the country’s brave fight for independence and democracy, as crucial demonstrations and revolutions have taken place in the square, especially since the Czech National Revival period in the 19th century. During that period, when Bohemia and Moravia were still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, creating the sculpture of such an important role model was an exceptional honour as well as a daunting task, so it took more than thirty years! It was officially unveiled in 1912, but other sculptures added in 1924. Another sculpture of Saint Wenceslas was created from resin after the Velvet Revolution, by David Černý (1999). It is sometimes called the Hanging Sculpture of Saint Wenceslas and you will find it inside the Lucerna passageway near Wenceslas Square (enter through Vodičkova Street).
Another symbol of achievement and fighting for Czech national identity and heritage is the grand building behind St. Wenceslas‘ Sculpture, the National Museum (1891). It bears the names of mainly important Czech patriots and role-models on its impressive Neo-Renaissance facade. It was commissioned mainly by a group of Czech intellectuals. Its funding came from proud patriots, private donours as well as influential Czech families, including the nobility. The interior is perhaps even more impressive, so it is highly recommended that you explore the hallway, even if you do not wish to visit the paid exhibitions. The historical building offers exhibits focusing primarily on natural history, such as collections of zoology, paleontology, anthropology, and geology, but also other temporary exhibitions. Very popular are for instance its beautiful collections of stones and minerals, as well as its modern history exhibitions in the new building across the street, connected via an underground passageway.
Important buildings on Wenceslas Square
Apart from the main building of the National Museum, other notable landmarks are hotels Evropa (now W Hotel; 1905), and Ambassador (1922), symbols of old-times charm, opulence and hospitality. Meanwhile, the stark, brutalist architecture of the Duplex club building echoes the Communist era’s architectural tendencies (1976).
Some other buildings such as the Hotel Juliš (1933) and the Baťa shoe company building (1929) are notable examples of modernist architecture in Prague, embodying functionalism with their clean lines, large windows and practical minimalist design.
In the lowest part of the square, opposite the National Museum across the square, you will find another sleek modern building, surprisingly built already in 1983, during Communism. The buildings called by locals “Na Můstku” with its distinctive clock and clean lines is regarded to be the beginning of post-modern architecture in the country.
A few buildings and renovations are also from more recent times, the newest addition being the Flow Building (2020), referred to as “Primark” by locals, even though it is not just a clothes department store, but also an office building. Its appearance is inspired by the the idea of energy streams rising up the facade, hence the name (flow of energy). The goal was to capture the flow (continuous cycle) of the city and to highlight the architects‘ focus on sustainability.
Fundamental events of modern history on Wenceslas Square
Wenceslas Square has been a backdrop for many pivotal moments in Czech history. Perhaps most hauntingly, the Nazi occupation in March 1939 saw soldiers marching through its broad expanse to show off that the country belonged to them. During World War II, a few buildings around the square were damaged or destroyed, reshaping its historical landscape.
In addition, the Hotel Evropa (Hotel Šroubek back then, now the W Hotel) served as a logistical hub for Nicholas Winton and his team during their efforts to save mostly Jewish children, over six hundred of whom were placed in foster care with families in Britain (1939). You can also pay respect to their effort and Jewish victims by visiting memorials dedicated to the Winton Trains inside the building of Praha hlavní nádraží, the main train station in the city, about fifteen minutes away from Wenceslas Square. (Note: More about the persecution of the Jews in our articles about the Jewish Quarter and Jewish Prague.)
Apart from WW2 destruction and clashes with the Nazi troops in May 1945, dramatic times also came with the Soviet Occupation in August 1968, a Warsaw Pact countries military intervention that put a stop to the achievements of the progressive Prague Spring movement, aimed at bringing more freedom and reforms to the country stifled by the totalitarian Communist regime. Heavy fighting between proud Czechs/Slovaks and mostly Soviet occupants happened also in front of the Czech Radio bulding, five minutes away from the National Museum. In fact, the building of the National Museum itself was shelled and damaged during the occupation. In addition, about half a year later, Wenceslas Square became a stage for powerful acts of protest and sacrifice. In January 1969, Jan Palach, a Charles University student, set himself ablaze in front of the National Museum, followed by other young men sacrificing their lives later.
Luckily, during dramatic events of the Velvet Revolution of 1989 nobody died. At long last, the massive demonstrations on Wenceslas Square contributed to the peaceful end of the Communist rule in the Czech and Slovak Socialist Republic. A very emotional moment forever engrained in the memory of the nation was when Václav Havel, the former dissident playwright and human rights activist, was speaking to the biggest crowd ever on Wenceslas Square, from the balcony of what is now called the Marks & Spencer’s building (Melantrich publishing house). So in the end the former political prisoner who had co-written Charter 77 became the first democratic president of the country after the Velvet Revolution.
Wenceslas Square has always been the patriotic heart of the nation and a symbol of the nation’s fight for freedom. It is not only a site of historical resonance, but also a vibrant hub of contemporary life, popular with many visitors as well as locals because of the shops, clubs, theatres and old-charm cinemas in the area.
